
The beginning of the week has arrived with oppressive humidity, as a stagnant typhoon system hovers nearby. It’s the kind of weather that saps your energy and leaves you feeling listless. Just a couple of days ago, the sounds of cicadas, known as “tsuku-tsuku-boshi,” began to fill the air, and last night, the chirping of crickets became audible.
Today, August 8th, marks the beginning of autumn in the traditional Japanese calendar, known as “立秋” (Risshu). Even in the midst of this scorching heat, it’s remarkable how these insects continue to respond to the changing seasons. As I started my morning jog today, the sky was still dimly lit, signaling the approach of autumn. Are you all able to spot the signs of the coming fall in your surroundings?
Now, amidst all of this, while I contemplate my plans for the Bon holiday mountain trip, I’d like to reminisce and write about my climb up Mt. Yarigatake five years ago. Interestingly, during the recent three-day weekend in July, my original plan was to ascend Mt. Yarigatake. However, due to unfavorable weather conditions, I had to change my destination to Mt. Shiromi. It seems I’m constantly at the mercy of the weather. With the Bon holiday approaching, and typhoons popping up here and there, it’s a source of concern and frustration.
Once you’ve taken up mountain climbing, there’s a certain peak that many aspire to conquer, and that’s Mount Yarigatake. On my first attempt, I had planned to ascend via the Nishikama Ridge from Mt. Sugoroku-dake, but unfavorable weather forced us to descend. The second attempt ended in disappointment as well, once again due to adverse weather conditions.
Determined not to be defeated, I set my sights on a third attempt in September 2018. This time, I teamed up with my friend, and we were determined to reach the summit. However, the day before our departure, heavy rain made us doubt our chances. We thought, “Is it happening again?” But by the time we arrived at Kamikochi, the weather forecast showed signs of improvement, so we decided to switch to the Yarisawa Route from Kamikochi and booked a night at a mountain hut.
With renewed determination, we set out on our third attempt, hoping that this time, luck would be on our side.

We departed from Osaka in the early morning and arrived at Kamikochi just before noon. The Azusa River was flowing with greater volume due to the rain from the previous day. While Kamikochi is usually bustling with tourists, there were notably fewer people around this time. On that day, we continued to walk to Yarisawa Lodge, where we would spend the night.

The next morning, we woke up to a perfect scene: clear skies, no wind, and a radiant sun. It was an ideal day for mountain climbing. We made steady progress without encountering any congestion, ascending rocky terrain and climbing ladders with ease. Finally, we reached the summit of Mt. Yarigatake on our third attempt. The joy was overwhelming, and we couldn’t help but shout in excitement, taking manh photos of the breathtaking scenery.

Mt. Yarigatake, with its distinctively pointed summit, stands out even when viewed from a distance. While there are many mountains in Japan, Yarigatake truly commands attention with its imposing presence.
The first person to summit Mt. Yarigatake was a monk named Banryu, born in Etchu (present-day Toyama Prefecture). In 1823, he gazed upon the majestic form of Mt. Yarigatake from Mt. Kasagatake and made the determined decision to climb it. Five years later, in 1828, he achieved the remarkable feat of reaching the summit of Mt. Yarigatake.
During that era, there were no chains or ladders, and one can only wonder what kind of footwear they used—perhaps straw sandals or something similar. It’s a testament to the incredible toughness and determination of people in the past. They might be looking down from the clouds at modern climbers who rely on all sorts of advanced equipment and saying, “Come on, walk a bit more firmly, will you?”
Banryu, it seems, continued to climb Mt. Yarigatake and even worked on improving the trail and maintaining the summit. He encouraged his followers to make the pilgrimage to the summit, and when he planned to install iron chains for the safety of climbers, a severe famine struck during the Tenpo era. The villagers blamed the famine on his mountain ascents and prohibited the installation of chains. However, after a prosperous year followed, they granted permission to install the chains.
It’s evident that Banryu was deeply committed to having his followers stand on the summit of Mt. Yarigatake, and he made significant efforts towards this goal. He was indeed an extraordinary monk. Disillusioned with the Buddhist establishment, he lived most of his life as an ascetic.
Amidst the deterioration of monks due to the Tokugawa shogunate’s patronage system, Banryu stood against it and independently achieved the founding of Mt. Yarigatake as a sacred mountain. It’s a path that resonates with the present day.
Across time and cultures, when individuals within an organization collectively think, “This is easy, we can be casual, and it will be fine,” and abandon critical thinking and progress, the entire organization tends to decline. This might be the current state of the Japanese government.
On the way back, we stayed at the Yokoo Sanso lodge, enjoying a relaxing stay with ryokan-like baths and rooms. While tents are great, lodges with baths are incredibly comfortable. With a sense of fulfillment after the summit, we drifted into a peaceful sleep.
