Breathtaking view from Mt. Sugoroku-dake (2,860 m) and reflections on Enku

which is located on the borders between Toyama Prefecture, Nagano Prefecture, and Gifu Prefecture

Even though September has arrived, the temperatures are still scorching, and I find myself yearning for cooler weather. Recently, I fulfilled a friend's request and climbed Mt. Sugoroku, which is located on the borders between Toyama Prefecture, Nagano Prefecture, and Gifu Prefecture. Ten years ago, during a long weekend in October, I had to abandon the ascent of Mt. Sugoroku due to the season's first snowfall, opting for Mt. Washiba-dake instead. This time, on September 1st, I successfully reached the summit.

As I stood atop the mountain, I couldn't help but reminisce about my solo climb ten years ago, which felt both long and short. From the summit, I gazed at the mountains with deep emotion. The North Kamado Ridge, followed by the West Kamado Ridge, loomed prominently. Kasagatake stood nearby, and to the north, I could see Yarigatake and Tsurugidake. It was a magnificent view.

Regarding the name 'Sugoroku,' in ancient texts, it was written as '456-dake' (456 Peak). It's said to be a similar type of place name as 'Sugo' or 'Goro,' indicating rocky terrain. In the Sugoroku Valley, there's a stone resembling a Go board, and there's a legend dating back to ancient times involving gods and mischievous spirits.

Furthermore, 'Sugoroku' also means rolling two dice and trying to achieve the highest possible roll, which is a double six (6-6), hence 'Sugoroku' meaning 'double six.' I can't remember the last time I played sugoroku, but do you play it during the New Year?

In 1690 (the 3rd year of the Genroku era), Enku, a Buddhist monk, climbed Mount Sugoroku from the Hida side during his ascetic practice known as the Rokuhomangyo. This marks the first recorded ascent (source: Wikipedia). Enku is renowned for the Enku Buddha, as you mentioned, and is known to have carved over 120,000 Buddhist statues during his 64-year lifetime. That's an astonishing number, and his statues exude a gentle, soothing aura with their serene expressions.




Enku, a Buddhist monk, ascended mountains throughout Japan and continued to carve Buddha statues. On the back of one of these statues, the Eleven-faced Kannon Bodhisattva, there is a handwritten note by Enku that reads:

Norikura-dake (Now known as Mount Norikura)
Hotakadake (Now known as Mount Hotaka)
Okadake (Now known as Mount Kasagatake)
Ioudake (Now known as Mount Yakedake)
Shakujoudake (Now known as Mount Shakujodake)
Sugorokudake (Now known as Mount Sugoroku)

This inscription can be found on the statue, reflecting the mountains he visited and likely sculpted during his spiritual journey as a practitioner of Shugendo, a form of Japanese mountain asceticism.

Enku, in his practice of Shugendo within the mountains, carved Buddha statues such as the Bodhisattva, Yakushi Nyorai, and Fudo Myoo, aiming to channel the spiritual power of the mountains and relieve the suffering of the people. While you may not have carved Buddha statues like Enku, being in the presence of the same mountains that he experienced can indeed be a humbling and awe-inspiring experience.

As for my recent journey, I set out from Osaka the day before, arriving at the Shin-Hodaka parking lot around 22:00. I had concerns about the free parking lot for climbers being full, but fortunately, there were a few spaces left, and I managed to park safely. Overcoming this initial challenge boded well for my trip. After parking, I took a short rest. 
The next morning, I started my ascent shortly after 4:00 AM.

After about an hour of hiking from the trailhead, you arrive at the Wasabi-daira Hut. Just like before, they have a selection of fruits and vegetables for sale, as seen in this photo taken during the descent. The appearance is refreshing, and climbers can purchase items like bananas to quench their thirst.”

About three and a half hours from Wasabi-daira Hut, you reach Mirror Lake. It truly is a picturesque scene, with Mount Yarigatake captivating your gaze.

The view from the summit of Mount Sugoroku, resembling a runway leading to Mount Yarigatake, prompts many climbers to strike airplane poses and take photos with big smiles on their faces. I couldn't resist taking a photo as well.

The plan for the next day was to climb Mount Kasagatake and then descend, departing in the middle of the night. However, a friend expressed, 'I think I'll pass.' So, ｗe changed the plan and descended following the same route we used for the ascent from Sugoroku Hut. I'll save Mount Kasagatake for another opportunity.

The sunrise I witnessed at the Yumiore-jouge Pass during the descent was incredibly divine and beautiful.

In perfect weather, I enjoyed a one-night, two-day climb of Mount Sugoroku. Although there were fewer flowers in September, the temperatures still felt like summer in the mountains, allowing for a leisurely and enjoyable experience. Imagining the gentle expression of Enku's Buddha, climbing the same mountains he ascended adds a unique twist to the adventure. It promises a different kind of mountaineering experience.

Lurking quietly on the side of the mountain trail is the gentian flower. They tend to close quickly when they're in the shade, so it's rare to see them in bloom on the mountains. However, I also appreciate gentians like this one, closed up like a bud. In the high mountains, perhaps they can't afford to leisurely stay open to protect themselves. Just like us humans, there are times when we need to withdraw to protect ourselves in severe environments.

Well then, until the next blog post!