Originally, during the three-day weekend just before the end of the rainy season, we had plans for a vertical traverse in the Northern Alps. However, due to the somewhat uncertain weather forecast, we decided to change our destination and climb Mount Shiomi (3052m) in the Southern Alps instead.
Mount Shiomi is located almost in the center of the Southern Alps and is often referred to as the “navel” of the Southern Alps. It’s quite unusual for a mountain to have the word “salt” (“塩” in Japanese) in its name. There are various theories about the origin of this name, including the fact that salt was harvested from nearby mountains and that, on clear days, Suruga Bay can be seen from the summit. It’s said that there used to be a salt production facility in the village of Oshika at the foot of the mountain during the Meiji period.
We departed from Osaka on July 14th and spent the night before at the Torigaike Campground in Okashi-mura. It was a quiet and beautiful campground, with newly installed restroom facilities that made our stay quite comfortable. There were a few other groups there besides us, but it seemed to be fully booked the following day due to reservations.
The road from Torikura Forest Road to the campground was a narrow and challenging path with limited passing opportunities. So, for those planning to go, please be cautious while driving.
The next day, we left the campground at 4 AM and moved to the Torikura Trailhead parking lot. Upon arrival, it was already full, and we managed to find a spot by the side of the road. It was surprising to see such a crowd, especially during a July three-day weekend right after the COVID-19 pandemic.
We had originally planned to camp at Sanpuku Pass, so we were worried that there might not be enough space for tents either. While climbing at a somewhat slow pace, we made our way, occasionally getting caught in the rain and carefully passing through areas with fallen rocks.
We eventually reached the Sanpuku Pass Hut. There was a bit of space available for tents, but those who arrived a bit later had to set up in the woods. This time, we were in for a two-night tent experience in this crowded campground.
We reached the hut at Japan's highest mountain pass
The next day, we left the campground at 5 AM and set our sights on the summit of Mount Shiomi. We passed through the forested area and reached the ridge, but the summit was still shrouded in thick fog. Despite occasionally glimpsing patches of blue sky, when we finally arrived at the summit after a long journey, all we saw was pure white - no view to behold.
Well, it was disappointing, but considering we had almost given up on the weather during this three-day weekend, we were grateful above all else that we made it to the summit safely.(^^)
As we began our descent, slivers of blue sky started to appear, and by the time we reached the campground, the sky had turned completely blue.
During the descent, we encountered a red-throated biard that wasn't too afraid of humans and was walking along the hiking trail ahead of us. I couldn't get a photo at the time, but upon checking later, it turned out to be a "Nogoma." These birds are migratory and are typically seen in the high alpine zone of northern Hokkaido and northern Honshu during the summer. It was fortunate to have the chance to see such a rare bird! 😊
It’s incredible to think that we had hiked all the way up there, and the sight of it filled us with a sense of accomplishment.
The Sanpuku Pass Hut and campground were bustling with many fellow climbers, and it provided a great opportunity to chat with various people. It’s interesting how, in the city, people often hesitate to strike up conversations with strangers even if they’re right next to each other, but in the mountains, everyone is friendly and jovial, cracking jokes and sharing stories. The unique sense of openness in the mountains is truly delightful.
I also noticed quite a few solo female climbers, and it’s inspiring to see the determined and confident young individuals on the trails. While snow-climbing has its charms, there’s something special about the summer mountains adorned with blooming flowers, and it’s undeniably refreshing.
Near the Torikura Trailhead, I came across a man carrying two large insect nets. When I asked him what he was trying to catch, he mentioned that he was studying a butterfly called “Asagimadara” that had migrated in abundance from Miyako Island.
It’s truly fascinating how these tiny butterflies travel all the way across the sea from a southern island to the Southern Alps. Nature is full of wonders.
Looking at field guides, it seems they can also be found in places like Utsubo Park in Osaka, so who knows, they might have paid a visit to our homes as well.
Next time, it might be fun to climb while observing the birds, flowers, and Asagimadara! 🦋🌼🏞️
